Soho Scarf

A pattern for you.
In commemoration of my trip to Purl Soho last May, where I got the yarn to make this triangular scarf I am calling this pattern Soho Scarf.

The scarf is made from MadelineTosh Merino Light which we have a pretty collection of in the store.  This is a a beauuuuuutiful yarn to work with.  So soft!  It is a one ply which makes it quite a unique fingering weight yarn, very delicate and subtle and so perfect for shawls and scarves.
See pattern after the jump

SOHO SCARF
Materials: 2 colours Madeline Tosh Merino Light 420 yds, 384 m each
pictured in Clover (main colour) and Sequoia (contrast colour).  I had much left over of Sequoia, probably enough to make  another scarf with it as the contrast colour again.
3.5mm circular needle 80cm
2 stitch markers

Gauge: 25 sts/ 10 cm (4 inches) in stocking stitch

Finished Dimensions: 122cm (48 inches) long, and 58cm (23 inches) deep

Pattern Notes: This scarf is made beginning at the neck edge and working towards the border.  4 increases every other row makes the triangular shape, two surrounding the mid point and one on each selvedge edge. There is a garter stitch border of 2 stitches along the selvedge and a wide garter stitch finale border.
Abbreviations: pm=place marker, Sl1=slip one, M1L=make one left, M1R= make one right, sm=slip marker, wyib=with yarn in back.

With contrast colour CO 5 sts
Row 1: Sl1, K1, pm, P1, pm, K2 (markers are added on this row around the mid stitch)
Row 2: Sl1, K1, M1L, sm, K1, sm, M1R, K2
Row 3: Sl1, K1, P3 (slipping markers), K2

Row 4: Sl1, K1, M1L, K to m, M1R, sm, K1, sm, M1L, K to last 2 M1R, K2
Row 5: Sl1, K1, P to last 2 sts (slipping markers) K2
repeat these rows once more (15sts) and change to main colour.
Repeat rows 4 and 5 with main colour
Repeat rows 4 and 5 with contrast colour
continue in this manner changing colours every 2 rows till scarf measures 48cm (19 inches) or desired length from CO, ending with main colour row.

Border is in garter stitch
Row 1: Sl1, K1, M1L, K to m, M1R, sm, Sl1 wyib, sm, M1L, K to last 2 sts, M1R, K2
Row 2: Sl1, K to m, sm, P1, sm, K to end
Repeat these 2 rows till border is 8cm (3.25 inches) or desired length.
BO loosely (use a crochet bind off or a larger needle)

Pattern Tutorials

Slipping Stitches
This scarf pattern has a narrow garter stitch border with a slip stitch edge. This is how I slipped my stitches to create a nice and neat flat edge of interconnecting V’s.

slip 1Insert your needle into the stitch like you would if you were purling it (from right to left)

slip 2Slip that first stitch off your left needle so it sits on the right.

slip 3
Before you move on… bring the working yarn in between the two needles from the front to the back position (like you would if you were changing from a purl stitch to a knit).  Now continue… you’ve slipped your stitch!

M1L
means make one left and here is how you do it.

m11Pick up the yarn that runs in between the two stitches

M12Put it on your left needle. The leg of the yarn in front of the needle should be a step ahead of the one hanging behind the needle.

M13Knit this new stitch through the back loop.  Knitting through the back loop tightens up the stitch and prevents a hole. This will certainly feel stiff!

M1R
stands for make one right and this is how you do it.M1R1Pick up the yarn in between the two stitches (see figure 1 for M1L) and put it on the left needle.  In this case the leg of the yarn in front of the needle should be bringing up the rear and the leg hanging behind the needle should be a step ahead.

M1R2Knit this new stitch through the front of the stitch like a regular ol’ knit.
This will also feel tight and awkward – this is how it should be!

Colour Changes

starting new colour copyWhen you first add your Main Colour Yarn you will want to maintain your slip stitch edge. This can be a bit confusing but it is easy!
Just slip your first stitch as always and reposition your working yarn in the back (as always).  Then knit your next stitch with your new colour!

When you already have both colours in play and you want to to switch from one to the other you can do so like this ↓

changing colours1Slip the first stitch and put the yarn in the back (like always)

changing colours 2Twist your yarn colours so they interlock by putting the previous row’s colour under the new colour. WHEN YOU SWITCH FROM ONE COLOUR TO ANOTHER KEEP YOUR TENSION VERY VERY LOOSE.  I can not stress this enough. This side of your work has a tendency to tighten up and you end up with a puckered edge, so err on the side of loosey-goosey .

Good luck with your scarves one and all, and have fun too!
Craftily yours
Kristin

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9 responses to “Soho Scarf

  1. This looks like a lovely warm scarf. Can it be knit on 2 needles rather than a circular needle? Also what does it look like when it is lying flat? It would be good to see the whole before I start knitting.
    Chris

    • kristinledgett

      Hello Chris. You can start your scarf on straight needles but at some point it will become too big to fit on them, as the size increases every row. At that point you can switch them for circulars. It turns out quite a few people have posted their soho scarf projects on Ravelry. You can have a look there and get some more views of the scarf and lots of great combinations of colours too. Here’s the link . Just sign in and click on the project tab at the top of the page to see 38 examples!

  2. Only yesterday I decided NOT to start another project as I am working on three (crochet) blankets, a green mohair cardigan, and a black merino lace scarf (not to mention work, son, home …) – but then I saw your Soho scarf pattern and all those beautiful color combinations on Ravelry … Seriously – how can I possibly WITHSTAND?

  3. Don’t mind me asking but I do not understand the pattern. At the end of row 2 you have 7 stitches, there are no increases in row 3 – but all of a sudden in row 4 I am supposed to have 15 stiches. How does this work? Am I reading it wrong? Thanks for your help!

    • Hello,
      There are 4 increases in Row 4 (all Make-Ones – M1L and M1R). They fall by the border on each selvedge edge and one on either side of the midpoint like this:
      Row 4: Sl1, K1, M1L, K to m, M1R, sm, K1, sm, M1L, K to last 2 M1R, K2

      This row is repeated on all even rows. Therefore after row 4 is completed you have 11 sts (7+4=11)
      Row 5 and all odd rows have no increases.
      Then the pattern says “repeat these rows once more”. On row 6 you will add another 4 sts as it is an even row and row 7 will have no increases since it is odd. You will have 15 sts now (11+4=15)

      Continue with these increases on all even rows and change colour on each even row too.
      and have fun!

  4. Thank your for your fast reply. One last question: what does “K to m” stand for?

  5. Pingback: FREE pattern Wednesday! | Stash-a-Yarn

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